MissViaggio in Singapore

19 September 2019

My big Asian adventure started in Singapore in mid-September 2019. Till then, I didn't know much about the tiny state except its heavy fines, its famous infinity pool on top of Marina Bay Sands, and its giant steel trees. But I had three days to discover more of this colorfully megacity.

Day 1 - The Arrival

After a 13 hour flight (with a short layover in Kuala Lumpur) I am finally in Singapore. I feel excited and a bit stressed at the same time because even though I am on vacation now, there is still so much to sort out. I have to arrange transportation from the airport to the hotel, get a tourist pass, buy a prepaid card, and eventually find my hotel. The good news is: ticking off is easy.

After a shower and a short nap (the king-size bed in my room was just too tempting after the long journey), I grab my camera, a tripod, and make my way to Fort Canning Park. I want to check out a nice photo spot (behind the MRT station Dhoby Ghaut) I found on Instagram. But as it often happens, I find it overcrowded which brings me to leave. I don't like standing in line to take a picture knowing that twenty others are already waiting to do the same.

Skyline view from Elgin Bridge, South Bridge Road.

I get on the next train that takes me to the Chinese and Japanese Gardens, which are considered to be one of the most beautiful gardens in Singapore. I can only guess that this comes near the truth as the gardens are closed to the public until further notice. It's a shame it wasn't on the city's website (believe me, I checked twice!). Otherwise I would have saved myself the trip there. Whatever. At least that's how I get to know Singapore by night. A great experience, by the way. It's almost as hot as during the day, everything is brightly illuminated and just looks wonderful. On my way back to the hotel I stop at a McDonalds to get some fries (better safe than sorry!) and then quickly at a 7-Eleven (I need some fresh water). Time to get some more sleep.

View down Bonham Street at night.

Good to Know

Singapore Tourist Pass: The pass comes in three options (1 Day, 2 Days, 3 Days). Singapore has an extensive network of trains and public busses. For more information, click here.
Prepaid Card: If you want to stay connected or surf, it's always a good choice to buy a prepaid card. I chose Starhub, because they cover 81 destinations worldwide and all my destinations in the upcoming weeks. Where to buy? Changi Airport (Terminal 1, 2, 3 and 4). Find more information here.

From Jelutong Tower you have a view of MacRitchie Reservoir.

Day 2 - Noisy Nature

Anyone who thinks that jungles are quiet is grievously mistaken. On my hike through the MacRitchie Reserve on my second day in Singapore, the cicadas chirp so loudly that I initially confuse them with jackhammers on a construction site. Crazy. But apart from the noise of the cicadas, the wildlife reserve is the perfect escape to nature. On my way to the "Treetop Walk" I meet long-tailed macaques and even a monitor lizard, which is so well camouflaged that I almost miss it.

If you're lucky, you will meet long-tailed macaques along the Nature Trail.

I share part of the way with a trio of expats. One of them, a french, has lived in Singapore for three and a half years because her husband works at the World Bank. She misses the winters in Europe, she admits. I totally get it as I myself struggle with the hot (90° Fahrenheit = 32° Celsius) and muggy weather. We somehow get to talking about long-tailed macaques because the trio haven't seen one on their today's hike yet. Once a bold one stole her glasses, though she is blind as a bat without them, one of them giggled. Luckily, a ranger exchanged them for peanuts. Great story! At Jelutong Tower is where we part company. I climb up the eight storeys in no time just to be rewarded with a spectacular view that competes with the one at Treetop Walk. The perfect place to have a picnic. Back at the hotel I decide it's time for siesta.

Hiking Details

Trailhead: Caldecott bus stop
Route: Tree Top Walk
Difficulty: Easy

Buddhas are said to support enlightenment.

An Afternoon in Chinatown

After a recreative afternoon nap, my thirst for sightseeing is back. And I know exactly where I want to go first: Chinatown, perfect for shopping trinkets, eating street food, and visiting cultural sights. It's bustling with people, but as soon as you enter one of the temples, you find worshippers deep in contemplation, peace, and quiet. One of the youngest but most beautiful temples is on Southbridge Road: the Bhudda Tooth Relic Temple. On each side of the main hall are a hundred small handcrafted Bhuddas believed to be enlightenment supporters. Golden lanterns hang from the ceiling. It looks incredibly beautiful and sparkles everywhere.

In comparison, Thian Hock Keng Temple is not nearly as pompous. From an architectural point of view, however, it is a real masterpiece. Its main hall is made of wood and bricks with no nails holding them together. How is that even possible, I wonder. And there is more to discover in the cities' oldest Chinese temple, like beautiful sculptures and carvings all with a deeper meaning. Two stone lions guard the main doors to ward off evil. The male one (left) has a pearl in its mouth, the female (right) has a cub. Interestingly, many visitors believe that touching the pearl will bring them happiness. I didn't try it and still believe to be a lucky fellow.

Lions guard the main doors.

Thian Hock Keng Temple is old and beautiful.

Next on my list of must-sees in Singapore: the Merlion, a hybrid between mermaid and lion and probably the most famous sculpture in the state. To get there, I have to cross through the waterfront which is busy with preparations for the Formula 1 Grand Prix on Sunday. That's pretty cool, isn't it? The stands for the spectators are already in place. The same goes for barriers and railings. Small trucks pass by loaded with lightning technology, as I walk down the circuit. Yeah, you read that right: Me on the circuit!! What a great feeling. I am afraid, the national mascot cannot compete with that.

Preparations for the Formula 1 Grand Prix are in place.

Ladies Night at Cé La Vi Club Lounge

I haven't gotten around to talking about Paula yet, a young German who I met at the airport in Kuala Lumpur. We hit it off immediately and promised to go to the Cé La Vi Club together. This club is probably one of the fanciest locations in town and famous for its spectacular skyline view. And best of all, once a week admission is free for ladies. High five!

Paula and I have arranged to meet at 10 p.m. in front of Marina Bay Sands. She brings Nina with her, a young English she met in the hostel. We are all pretty excited. Thanks to highspeed elevators, it takes only seconds to get us to the 57th floor. The party is in full swing. We get us some free drinks first and then celebrate the view - despite the haze caused by the clearing of the rainforest in Sumatra it is just terrific. We are having such a great time dancing and laughing. Way too soon, we take the last train towards town.

View on the circuit from the rooftop of Marina Bay Sands.

Good to Know

Cé La Vi (L57, Sands Skypark, Hotel Tower 3): Every Wednesday, admission for ladies is free. Be prepared to wait in line.

At Symphony Lake concerts are held.

Day 3 - The Gardens

I have a quirk: I am hunting World Heritage Sites. Whenever I've set a travel destination, I have to look up the closest World Heritage Sites and, if possible, also visit them. Maybe, it's because I believe that the landmarks recognized by the UNESCO are really that remarkable. Or maybe, it's because I don't want to miss out on anything. Either way, today I wish to pay the Singapore Botanic Gardens a visit - a World Heritage Site since 2015. For more than 150 years, the Gardens is an important centre for plant research in Asia. Scientists experimented with plants like Para Rubber and helped to promote it. They even started to breed some of the least often orchids in the world. Apart from that the Gardens is home to 47 heritage trees.

The Gardens are famous for its beautiful orchids.

Walking though the Gardens is meditative. Every now and then the scenery changes - from rainforest which once covered most of Singapore and bamboo groves to the National Orchid Garden where they display hundreds of blooming flowers. It's stunningly beautiful. By the way: did you know that an Orchid called Vanda Miss Joaquim is Singapore's National Flower? You find its motifs on bank notes, coins, and stamps.

Down at swan lake I get into conversation with an elderly couple from Singapore. The two have lived in Europe for many years, but decided to spend their retirement back in Singapore three years ago. That's because Singapore is the world's most beautiful spot, they agree. They really recommend to visit Sentosa Island with its golden sunny beaches. That will have to wait until the next visit I am afraid.

Good to Know

Singapore Botanic Gardens: Admission is free - with the exception of the National Orchid Garden (students pay 1 SG-$, adults 5 SG-$). Tickets can be purchased at the entrance of the National Orchid Garden. For more information, click here.

Little India is one of the most colorful districts in Singapore.

Lunch in Little India

I meet Paula for lunch at Tekka Centre in Little India. It's popular for low-priced street food and busy with people. Thanks to the cook in my hotel who made me a sumptuous gluten free breakfast, I am still full so I pass on lunch. Afterwards we stroll a bit through the neighborhood following the scent of joss sticks. One spot you shouldn't miss is the house of Tan Teng Niah on Kerbau Road. Tan Teng Niah was a Chinese businessman who once built the villa for his wife. A few years ago, it has been fondly restored and painted in the brightest colors. It's fair to say that this villa is one of the most instagrammable spots in Singapore.

Bayfront at Sunset

Speaking of Instagram: bayfront at sunset is definitely another great spot for memorable photos (in front of Marina Bay Sands where you have the best view of the skyline). Paula and I have hoped for a beautiful sunset, but just now clouds darken the sky. No problem! The view over the city is still great and we actually came here to enjoy the Garden Rhapsody in Gardens by the Bay. So we head over early, find us a nice spot just down the trees and then let the magic work. The motto of today's show is A journey through Asia with the songs ‘Bengawan Solo’, ‘S Dayung Sampan’, ‘Sukiyaki’, and ‘Singapura, Oh Singapura’ by the artists Alemay Fernandez, Dawn Ho, Leandra Lane, and Lou Peixin. This is definitely the highlight of my three days in Singapore and the best ending anyway. Tomorrow, I will leave for Taipei.

Visiting Garden by the Bay is one of the must-sees when staying in Singapore.

Good to Know

Garden Rhapsody: Visitors can enjoy two 15-minute light and sound shows every day. My tip: come sufficiently early to look for a place amid the steel trees. It can be crowded. For more information, click here.

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